Monday, December 30, 2013
Heritage and Champion Trees
Sunday, December 22, 2013
My Strategy For Tree Color Mixing
Sandi,
A lot depends on where you live as to the best color for tree canopy greens, as well as the season , time of year. Here in north central Florida, I like to use a combination of Ivory Black, Ultramarine Blue and a bit of Cadmium Yellow medium in winter for the darkest parts of the canopy. As I add color and light to the branches of leaves, I add more cadmium yellow and less black to the mix. I will also use various warms as needed, such as cadmium orange, yellow ochre, and cad red to the mixture to warm it up for winter and fall. Slow and gradual adjustments in the color mixes work great for me. You can also make nice darks with trans red oxide and ultramarine or cad red deep with sap green.
I have found that my favorite green mix for Live Oak trees is either ultramarine with yellow ochre or thalo blue red shade with yellow ochre. As light intensifies in some areas of the canopy, I begin to add a bit of cad yellow medium or cad orange to that mixture, but not over doing it.
For summer mixtures, there is more cool green, so I switch to cadmium lemon yellow and ochre for my mixing yellows, and ultramarine and thalo for the dark cool greens. I stay away from black for summer painting, unless I want to mix true grays, because the greens are too olive with black for summer, when the canopies tend toward a blue green. Remember to warm your greens use the warmer part of the color wheel like reds, oranges and warm yellows. To cool your greens use more blue and cooler yellows. If your mixture gets out of control and too intense, use black to make a grayer green or red to tone down the intensity, just a bit.
For trunks, I use black, white, cad red light, cad orange, red iron oxide, UB, in various mixes. I like to add a blue cast to the dark edge and a blue gray to limbs moving away from the viewer to show atmospheric and distant quality to the limbs. Here in the south, there will be limbs covered in various green mosses, so a bit of cad yellow or ochre will take care of that. I usually will lighten and soften limbs and twigs that reach up into the sky, so there is a softer transition in that part of the canopy.
Have fun experimenting and and thanks for your question.
Love,
Linda
Tuesday, December 17, 2013
Repairing Frost Cracks in Trees
Frost cracks are not actually caused by frost, but by fluctuating temperatures. The cracks are most often found on the south or southwest sides of trees, which get the most direct sunlight. On a cold, sunny day, the sun warms the bark and wood of the tree, causing them to expand. At night when the temperature drops rapidly, the bark cools faster than the wood beneath, forcing the bark to split vertically as it shrinks over the expanded wood. This is most likely to occur on trees with wounds that have already weakened the bark, especially if they are young trees or trees with thin bark. These cracks are rarely fatal to the tree and can be minimized.
1
Examine the crack in the tree bark. If the sides of the split are smooth and the bark is still firmly attached to the tree, do not do anything. The tree will eventually form a callous over the crack.
2
Remove any bark that has separated from the wood of the tree. The bark will not reattach if left on, but will prevent the tree from callousing properly. Cut the separated bark from the tree with a sharp knife. Make sure you do not cut into the tree wood, but only through the bark layer.
3
Shape the wound while you cut to resemble a skinny, sideways football with the pointed ends at the top and bottom of the wound. This shape will make it easier for water to drain from the bottom of the wound rather than collecting on the bark.
4
Check the frost crack periodically in the spring and summer to make sure no organisms are invading the tree through the open wound.
Thanks to http://homeguides.sfgate.com/fix-frost-crack-tree-74301.html for this information.
Saturday, December 14, 2013
Red Cedar
Thursday, December 12, 2013
Line VS Mass
Monday, December 9, 2013
Sky Holes
Friday, December 6, 2013
Winter Live Oak finished
Saturday, November 30, 2013
Live Oak in Progress
Wednesday, November 20, 2013
Fish Prairie Trees
Friday, November 15, 2013
More Tree Painting
Saturday, October 26, 2013
Commission almost done
Friday, October 25, 2013
Update on the Tree Commission
Thursday, October 17, 2013
Let the tree commission begin!
Tuesday, September 24, 2013
Fall and Winter Palette
Thursday, September 5, 2013
Back to Trees
Sunday, August 18, 2013
Field One Trees
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Field One Summer II
Friday, June 7, 2013
Repairing a cracked tree trunk
Mowing Season
Monday, May 20, 2013
Tree Vista Painting
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Painting limbs, twigs, and branches
Thursday, April 25, 2013
Back From a Residency
Sunday, March 31, 2013
More tree fun with oils
Saturday, March 23, 2013
A commission
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
Observing Trees to Paint in Studio
There was more than one angle of this tree group that was nice, so I may do another one of this scene in the future. Staying at Fair Oaks made it possible for me to drive out to the scene several times to sit and look at it for a bit between painting sessions. The longer I paint, the more convinced I am that really observing a scene rather than painting it is a good marriage between studio painting and the real outdoors. I enjoy painting on site but not as much as just observing and taking my ideas back to the studio to work on larger paintings. I have painted on location for about 25 years now and have gone through many experiences, good and bad paintings and gradually have come to understand that I am simply a better studio painter. I now think of plein air as research for studio work. It is fun, but simply a means to the end in my studio.
There is so much to learn about painting trees that I expect they will keep me occupied with practice for many more years to come, both on location and in my studio.